Tour Overview

18/09/07

Tribals + Textiles: a 15 Day Exotic Odyssey in Western India- 13-27 November 2008

Since ancient times, textiles have been associated with important rituals and social occasions in India. Sacred sculptures are traditionally clothed, and strips of cloth are hung on trees and poles as offerings around Hindu shrines. Cloth is given when a baby is born and when a man reaches 60 and renews his marriage vows with his wife. Textiles became political when Gandhi’s call for hand-spun Indian cloth—and thus less reliance on British goods—turned into the rallying cry for independence in the 1940’s.
Gujarat’s arid climate and susceptibility to droughts and floods have always made agriculture here uncertain. During the summer monsoons, when the grasslands north of Bhuj become an inland sea and farming has to be abandoned, embroidery and beadwork flourish as means of making a living. Northern Gujarat, western Rajasthan, and neighboring Sind in Pakistan remain three of the world’s richest areas for folk embroidery. Bhuj and the old port city of Mandvi in Gujarat are also centers for bandhani, or tie-dye work. Bandhani shawls are part of the common dress of western Indian women.

Pre Tour Option

 

13 November will be the last day of the week-long famed Pushkar Fair in Rajasthan. Guests may wish to consider an earlier arrival into Delhi, allowing enough time for 2 or 3 days at this lively fair, followed by a night in Udaipur then onward travel to meet up in Ahmedabad.
A city of Pilgrimage and the only pilgrimage shrine dedicated to Brahma in all of India from time immemorial, Pushkar begets a legacy of timeless architectural heritage with over 500 temples and 52 bathing Ghats each with its own miraculous qualities and powers of healing and radiates an ambience of peace and spirituality that casts its allure. It is also the home to the famous Rose gardens of Rajasthan that produce exquisite attar of rose exported all over the world.
Accommodation can be arranged in Royal Tents and guests have the opportunity for astounding photographic images as well as the opportunity to witness many cultural performances.

Day 1 Ahmedabad

Arrive this evening into Ahmedabad (with Singapore Airlines) where you will be met and transferred to the House of Mangaldas Girdhardas-a unique and charming heritage property.
You will be welcomed at a cocktail party for a tour briefing.

Ahmedabad is the largest city in the state of Gujarat and the seventh-largest urban agglomeration in India, with a population of almost 5.3 million. Located on the banks of the River Sabarmati, the city is an administrative centre and was the capital of Gujarat from 1960 to 1970.
The city was founded in 1411 to serve as the capital of the Sultanate of Gujarat and became the home of a booming textile industry, which earned it the nickname "the Manchester of the East." The city was at the forefront of the Indian independence movement in the first half of the 20th century.
Once characterised by dusty roads and bungalows, the city is witnessing a major construction boom and population increase. A rising centre of education, information technology and scientific industries, Ahmedabad remains the cultural and commercial heart of Gujarat and much of western India and is now undergoing considerable expansion and modernization, yet still boasts over fifty mosques and tombs, as well as Hindu and Jain temples and grand step-wells.

Day 2 Ahmedabad

Today’ highlight is a visit to the incomparable mecca, the Calico Museum of Textiles.
India's long textile tradition is highlighted with its collection of five centuries of the finest textiles that were spun, woven, printed, and painted in different parts of India. There are textile swatches of Indian origin found at archaeological sites in Egypt, double-ikat silk sarongs made in Patan for the Indonesian market, chintz and curtains made for the Dutch, British and Portuguese colonial powers in Gujarat, floral embroidery from Punjab, shawls from Kashmir, 18th century tie-and-dye, the richly embroidered Mughal tent of Shah Jahan whose palace is nearby, royal wardrobes of Rajasthan, cloth paintings and manuscripts, religious narrative cloth paintings like Pichwais and Kalamkaris.
Tonight’s special dinner is at Agashiye restaurant preceded by a tour of the kitchen and followed by a Kansa Thali banquet introducing you to the delights of Gujarati cuisine that often has a slightly sweet base note sitting below the aromatic spicing.

Day 3 Ahmedabad / Utelia

This morning take in the sights of Ahmedabad before stopping en route for a unique lunch where meals are served on leaf platters and beverages consumed from hand-thrown clay tumblers. Visit a small Museum of utensils before arriving at Utelia where traditional carts will transport you through the villages to reach your Palace accommodation.
This evening the Royal family of Utelia will be you hosts at Dinner accompanied by local folk entertainment.
The Palace Utelia is built in a typical Indo-Saracenic architectural style with European influences, and features domes, pillared galleries, balconies and porticoes. The highlight of the property is the dining hall, which is appointed in elegant wooden furniture, well framed portraits, gilt framed mirrors and antique tables. The terrace has splendid views of the village, the river Bhogavo and the flat countryside of Bhal.

Day 4 Ahmedabad / Utelia

This morning visit Gundi Ashram, a center for handloom weaving and spinning. After lunch visit Lothal to see one of the southernmost outposts of the Indus civilization, and certainly one of the most interesting examples of Harrapan town planning. Lothal is an interesting example of the greatest of maritime architecture from the ancient world.
The archaeological ruins of this 2400-1600 BC Indus Valley citadel has a dockyard, acropolis, bead factory and a museum.

Day 5 Utelia / Gondal

This morning drive 5 hours to the fortified town Gondal on the River Gondali, visiting the villages of Bharwad and Kathi where beadwork traditions thrive, and the silk weavers use the ikat technique. In the walled town of Wadhwan with its historic buildings women work on bandhani or tie-and-dye and there is a lively, living heritage of metalwork crafts.
On arrival visit the 1748 AD Naulakha Palace which houses the erstwhile ruling family's private collection of bead work, textiles, brassware, hand-painted toys and silver crafts.
Gondal is a testimony to the great visionary ruler Sir Bhagwatsinhiji, whose high education and extensive tours to Europe enhanced his aesthetic taste, which can be seen in the architecture and planning of public buildings, parks, bazaars and palaces built during his regime who introduced social reforms in the late 19th and early 20th century. It is a fortified town located.
Stay at Orchard Palace, originally a state guest house, built in colonial style with an arcade of semi circular arches, a quirky collection of objects, paintings, vintage cars and rail saloons set in the midst of fruit orchard.

Day 6 Gondal / Jetpur / Junagadh –/Gondal

Leave the town to drive to Jetpur, that exporter khanga and kitange (fabric used by native Africans) and is known for its screen and block printing workshops, and a yarn-dyeing centre, and then to Junagadh where you can see gem-encrusted carpets, wardrobes and tapestries of the Nawab.
An historic city, Junagadh has 3rd century BC Buddhist relics, a medieval fort, mausoleum complexes, palaces.
This evening return to Gondal.

Day 7 Gondal / Dwarka

This morning is a 5-hour drive to Dwarka, rated as one of the seven most ancient cities in the country. The legendary city of Dvaraka in Hindu History was the dwelling place of Krishna. It is believed that, due to damage and destruction by the sea, Dvaraka was submerged six times and modern Dwarka is the 7th city to be built in the area.
Seldom visited by westerners because of its remote location in the western state of Gujarat, the fascinating and extremely beautiful Jagatmandir temple is bordered on one side by the ocean coast and on the other side by the town of Dwarka. One of India's oldest and most venerated pilgrimage sites, Dwarka's archaeological and historical background is shrouded in mystery. On arrival stay at Dwarka Residency Hotel, a simple functional hotel but the best in town

Day 8 Dwarka

Explore the fascinating temples and the town to which pilgrims and Vaishnavite Hindus flock from all over Gujarat. There is a colourful and fascinating market place and people here are easy going, friendly and welcoming, even to the rarely seen tourists. The beach is good but without any palms for shade.

Day 9 Dwarka / Bhuj

Known as the "Jaisalmer of Gujarat," Bhuj is a medieval maze of tight, winding streets, flurried marketplaces, ancient palaces (now museums), and Hindu temples decorated with gaily painted gods, abandoning themselves to the joys and terrors of all their incarnations. Mystery— definitely. Everyone seems to have a mission. There are few beggars or loiterers. You sense constant purposeful movement here with little time to notice foreign travelers. It is as though this remote city, rarely visited by outsiders, responds to a higher agenda of purpose, reflecting centuries of accumulated tradition and independence from the rest of the country.
The best accommodation in the region is 14 kms distant from the town, individual cottages arranged on the foreshore of a reservoir offering comfortable and very clean facilities. Garha Safari Lodge provides the best base for exploring this fascinating region.

Day 10 Bhuj

Today sightseeing of Bhuj town including a visit to Bhujodi village to see weavers who produce blankets and thick shawls and woven lengths for the local communities on pit looms dug into the floors of squat mud houses decorated with gorgomati. You will also visit a Rabbari textile collector. Before returning to your lodge visit some of the snake charmers houses where unique and elaborate style pf embroidery are produced.

Day 11 Bhuj

Today is one of the highlights of the tour as you spend a day in a village with a picnic lunch to experience demonstrations in various types of embroidery, with a shisha (mirror works demonstration), and enjoy the be privilege of observing the wonderful life styles of these pastoralists. Other crafts such as bell making, wood carving and lacquer work can also be seen.
The village is a special visual treat for photographers!

Day 12 Bhuj

Today travel deep in the region north of Bhuj and visit the craft centers of Khavda, Hodko and Dhordo. You also visit the temple community of Hindu sadhus known as Khanpata(Split ears) because of their habit of heavy ornaments.

Day 13 Bhuj / Zainabad

Today drive 5 hrs to Zainabad on the fringes of the Little Rann of Kutch where you stay at Desert Coursers, a Camp located on the banks of a lake with ethnic cottages and modern amenities.
Afternoon camel safari into the sanctuary.
An unusual marshland, Rann comes from the Sanskrit word "ririna" meaning "a waste", a space without a counterpart on the globe, of 8,750sq kms.
The dry season dries out the marshland, leaving isolated salt islands on a vast plain. As the summer heat intensifies, the salt in the blistered earth is transformed into a radiant dazzling whiteness.
With the onset of the monsoon, the marshland floods and is transformed into a vast inland sea. The largest area of nothingness on the planet; uninhabited, the ultimate physical barrier, separating India from Pakistan along its far western border. Only camels can cross these wastes, and at terrible cost. During the monsoon season it's a shallow salt marsh, carrying the seasonal rivers of Rajasthan slowly out to the Arabian Sea, just south of the great Indus Delta of Pakistan. Then for months it's a treacherous quagmire of molasses mud under a brittle salt skin. Periods of safe crossing are minimal. Occasional piles of bleached bones attest to the terrors of this place. Tales of survivors, reluctantly told, are unrelieved litanies of human (and animal) distress. There is life out here — herds of wild asses the size of large dogs and vast flocks of flamingoes encamped mud-nest "cities" — but very hard to find.

Yet brightness and liveliness comes from the colours of heavily embroidered local dress of Rabaris, Ahirs and Meghwals among others; each with their distinct dress and the practice of a particular craft.

Day 14 Zainabad / Danta

This morning is a jeep safari to the Little Rann sanctuary by open Jeep, perchance to catch glimpses of Wild Ass thundering down the hard dessert, fleeing Bluebulls and graceful leaping Gazelles. Or travel on Camel back - peacefully soaking in the desert atmosphere viewing Houbara, Bustards, Common Crane, Eagles Owl, Gerbils, Desert Foxes, and the brilliant sun sets.
After breakfast drive to Danta via Patan visiting the 1026 A.D. Sun Temple of Modherna that is designed so that at the solar Equinoxes the first ray of the rising sun let up the images of the Sun god.
Stopping at Patan, a beautiful old town with Jain Temples and carved wooden houses you visit the famous Home of Patola silk saris.
Lodging tonight are at Bhavani villa, a century old villa situated on an hill that over looks Danta town and the scenic Aravalli hills. Your hosts are the Maharan Mahipendra Singh and his family. Maharana Mahipendra Singh, the 129th descendant of the founder of the dynasty, who is passionate about animals and keeps a stud farm.

Day 15 Danta / Ahmedabad / Departure

This morning is at leisure or take a last minute visit to the tribal communities around Danta.
This afternoon drive 4 hrs, (150 kms) to Ahmedabad Airport.
Departure late tonight with Singapore Airlines

 

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