Jaipur Shopping Notes

23/11/07

Jaipur: Jaipur is renowned for textiles, precious and semi-precious gemstones, exquisite jewellery, blue pottery. Indeed there is so much to see in Jaipur, guests may wish to extend their stay by a day after the end of the tour.

We like the following:

Gems & Jewellery

Gem Palace MI Road, for exquisite well designed precious and semi-precious jewellery. Working with European designers, a great deal of their stock seems to suit Western tastes more. Service can be extremely variable if not at times downright churlish: they do get a very well heeled and spoiled clientele and can sometimes be rather indifferent in their service. Ask for Lucy as she is a young Australian currently working there if you go. Tel 01412374175 http://www.gempalacejaipur.com/

Silver+ Art Palace for an outstanding selection of cut stones, antiques, statuary and very special textiles.
313-A, Old Amer Road Jaipur
Phone+91+141+2635722,2632008,2635797,2635686
Fax : +91+141+2635723 www.silverandartpalace.com

Amrapali Jewellers are renowned for their elaborate traditional, contemporary and ethnic gold and silver jewellery as well as for enamelled pieces including mogul originals. Their head office is Panch Batti on M.I.Road. Tel: 0141-237-7940, 236-2768 Hours 10:30 am – 8:00 pm Monday to Saturday. www.amrapalijewels.com
They also have a new showroom in New Delhi at 39, Khan Market.

Royal Gems & Arts
Saras Sadan, Gangori Bazar Tel: 0141-232-1334, 231-9564 www.royalgemsandarts.com Hours: 10 am – 8 pm Monday to Saturday, 11 am – 8 pm on Sunday
The frescos alone are worth a visit to this painted haveli hidden behind the City Palace where the polo loving owner presides over a worthy collection of antiques and gems. Most are hidden from view, perhaps not to distract from the fabulous frescos. Ask to open some drawers where stylish earrings in semi-precious stones can be scooped up by those willing to commit some time to the hard bargain while those in search of serious bling should ask to see the private collection.

Tripolia Bazaar inside the old city on one of the main roundabouts is fun for Indian bangles and trinkets, kitchenware, stainless steel etc.

Women’s Apparel – in a more western style

Ratan Textiles, Ajmer Road has a small range of contemporary, well made Indian fashion in silks and cottons as well as soft furnishings.

Soma and Anokhi (both also with outlets in New Delhi), produce handblocked cotton and silk clothing and homewares, table and bed linens. Soma's range tends to be brighter and bolder, whereas Anokhi's designs are more understated and widely exported to the West.

Anokhi 2nd Floor KK Square,Above "Crosswords Bookstore" C-11 Prithviraj Road, C-Scheme,Tel. 0141 4007244, 45
Soma 5 Jacob Road Civil Lines 302 006 Tel: +91 141 2222778

Marie-Hélène is a young French woman with her own label of Indian-inspired clothing suited to Western tastes. Her shop Hot Pink is inside the pretty grounds of Narain Niwas Palace, Narain Singh Road Hours: 10 am – 7:30 pm daily (until 9 pm November to March)
Tel: 0141-510-8932 (Her jewellery designs sell at Gem Palace)|A superb collection of lovely and special clothes and textiles, as well as a few homewares. Just off the runway pieces from home-grown talents like Manish Aurora and Rajesh Prateep Singh hang like artwork alongside the eponymous line of cotton & silk frocks with a decidedly Parisian twist. Still need more metal after the jewellery shops? Stock up on Kashmiri shawls with gold & silver thread. http://www.hotpinkindia.com/

Nayika, Tholia building MI Road, further along from Gem Palace inside a lovely courtyard haveli for quilted jackets and women’s clothing Tel: 0141-236-2664 Hours: 10:30 am – 7:30 pm Monday to Saturday
Finding this little shop is the first challenge, it is tucked at the back of the driveway behind Tholia’s Khuber, a worthy stop for antique silver bangles and Maharaja inspired baubles. Don’t expect much service inside Nayika, known for its elegant quilted silk jackets. The young girls behind the counter may take your order for a particular coat in a different size but come back laden with an entirely unrelated selection. Those who persevere will be rewarded with unexpectedly chic pieces at fixed but eminently fair prices

Cottons Hari Bhawan, Main Achrol House, Jacob Road, Civil Lines Tel: 0141-222-3870 Hours: 10 am – 8 pm Monday to Saturday, 11 am – 6:30 pm on Sunday
Young and funky fabrics, plenty of sparkle plus floral cotton quilts in all sizes. For souvenirs that make a difference, stock up on the beaded jewelry at the entrance, it’s made by local street kids .

Indian Clothing and Textiles

Indian Clothing

Roop Sagar 156 Johari Bazar Tel: 0141-256-6518, 256-6411, 309-4438
The highlight of Johari Bazar makes a worthy stop on the way out of town though most bazaar savvy shoppers skip the rest of its tiny shops in favour of better bargains at Bapu. Clear a path through piles of silky sari fabric to the back of the surprisingly spacious emporium where sequin skirts have been hemmed for their loyal overseas clientele. Don’t be surprised to find some foreign labels already sewn in to the glittery garments. Look for Roberta Freymann’s besparkled babes, a small fortune on Madison Avenue, priced so low here you almost forget to bargain, but you should!

Khadi Shop MI Road Government Emporia for handloom fabrics – the signature fabric of India immortalised by Ghandi.

Fabindia (also with major outlets in Delhi at Connaught Place and GK1 – for huge range of clothing and homewares to honeycomb towels and children’s wear. C-Scheme C-69, Sarojini Marg, Ph: +91-141-5115991, http://www.fabindia.com/

Manglam at Shop 353Khetan Bhawan MI Road has an excellent range of kurtas at fixed prices. Tel: 0141-237-9296 Hours: 10:30 am – 8 pm Monday to Saturday
This closet size shop seems slightly claustrophobic after roaming through Gem Palace next door but for classic cotton kurtas in every color imaginable priced at Rs 250, serious shoppers willingly squeeze in.

Rajasthan Fabrics + Arts, Laxman Dwara, City Palace for collectors of antique textiles and lovely contemporary clothing. Laxman Dwara, City Palace Tel: 0141-260-1432 Hours: 9:30 am – 6:30 pm daily
Collectors and curators agree that the elegant & affable Subhash Sharma is the name to know in Jaipur for antique textiles and traditional clothing. His well stocked shop is a virtual sub-continental tour of handspun fabric of Peshawar and Gujarati knotted tie dye to Rajput finery. Modern updates at more modest prices can be found at Satayam, his son’s ultrachic address just next door

Hand Block Cottons

Dori 330 Haasanpura C Kamla Nehru Nagar N.B.C. Road Tel: 0141-222-2420 Hours: 9 am - 8 pm Monday to Saturday
This hand block wholesaler can be persuaded to open his slightly out of the way warehouse to shoppers who will delight in playing dress up among the fabulous frocks destined for faraway boutiques at prices far above the deals on offer here. Flowing flower print coats cram the walls while sarongs and beach cover-ups make pretty piles on the floor. In this skirt induced euphoria, don’t overlook the excellent quality bed quilts here as well.

Satayam a Chic Boutique Laxman Dwara, City Palace Tel: 0141-260-1432 Hours: 9:30 am – 6:30 pm daily
The son of Jaipur’s leading textile dealer takes his inspiration from the family jewels, using India’s rich weaving and printing traditions to create a modern, elegant line of shawls, skirts and pretty frocks, with more to come each season. Cotton oxford shirts get dressed up with sterling silver buttons while khadi cotton fabric from Bengal is printed near Jaipur with flowers and paisleys in pure silver & gold. The hand stitched quilts will look dreamy on the most expensive European linens.

Rashid
Former block printer for renowned artist Brigitte Singh, Rashid's home studio behind the City Palace produces wonderful lengths, quilts, and clothing.

TAILORING

Satguru Tailors – ask for Rajneesh, you choose colours and fabrics and he can copy anything. 36 Jagdish Colony, Mount Road Near Ramgarh Mod BY APPOINTMENT ONLY T: 01412671016

Jodhpur Tailors Men’s Tailor Tel: 09829-056691
Despite the name, this is Jaipur’s finest men’s tailor. Mr. Jugal is great for speedy suits and coats but women will want to save their party dress making for another set of nimble fingers .

Munnu Khan & Sons Tailors Men’s & Women’s Tailor
Shop No. 15 & 16, Moti Dungari Road, Muslim School Tel: 0141-260-4029, 260-0207 Hours by appointment
The sign says ‘Traditional Men’s Tailoring’ but Hot Pink founder Marie Helene de Taillac began bringing her skirts and stuff here a few years back. Now Munnu & his sons can nip and tuck a frilly frock with the best of them. Day trippers, be advised: this service runs on local time .

Sweetmeats

Johari Bazaar the jewellers market, LMB for finest sweets (methai) and nearby outstanding lassi shop

Blue Pottery

Blue pottery Jaipur's oldest ceramics shop (trading since 1886) is a modest, familyrun affair. Jaipur Blue Pottery Art Centre: Near Jain Mandir, Amer Road, Jaipur (0141 2630116 )

Neerja International Inc. S-19 Bhawani Singh Road, C-Scheme Ext. Tel: 0141-222-3511 www.neerjainternational.com Hours: 9:30 am – 6:00 pm Monday to Saturday, 10 am – 5 pm on Sunday
Blue pottery fills this red house in an otherwise residential neighbourhood. Artisan quality plates line the walls with prices starting at the very reasonable Rs100.

Homewares

AFKD B-6 / A-1 Prithviraj Road, C-Scheme Tel: 0141-236-4863/4 Mobile: 09314484053 Hours: 10 am -7 pm Monday to Saturday, Sunday by appointment
The sandalwood bangles smell fantastic and the Gujarati scarves make great gifts but this is Jaipur’s first true interior shop so its worth spending time admiring the wire coffee tables (woven by artisans who used to make bird cages), groovy pillowcases threaded with recycled plastic strips and modern stacking bowls made with Rohida wood traditionally used by Jain priests.

Prem Trading Homewares Saraogi Mansion, M.I. Road Hours: 9:30 am – 6:30 pm Monday to Saturday
A favorite of French jewelry designer Marie Helene de Taillac, the honeycomb guest towels from South India sold here will spoil hands for anything less.

Allah Buksh 101 MI Road for brasswork and traditional lanterns

Satayam – Laxman Dwara, City Palace, hand stitched quilts, shawls w prints in pure gold + silver, old techniques used in a modern way T: 5110927

Surabhi Exports. Gitto a block printing genius works with sought after interior designers, fine fabrics…. C-57 Mahaveer Marg C-Scheme By Appointment only T: 0141 2372202

Dhurry Rugs

Ambika Exports Naila House, Moti Doongri Road Tel: 0141-261-5059, 260-7665 Hours by appointment
Past the pigs and under the saffron gate, this warehouse is piled high with yarn balls in every shade, waiting to be woven. Originally made in Indian villages as ‘dowry dhurries,’ these hand knotted rugs were commercialized by the British and woven in the Bikaner jails. These days wool or cotton carpets can be custom designed and made to order in about 90 days by non-child labor under supervised conditions. Call ahead & come prepared to create, though there is a well stocked cupboard for those who need inspiration.

Sandals, Jhuties (Shoes): many stores with vast collection opposite Hawa Mahal

Deepak Foot Wear
Shop 112-A, Bapu Bazar, Near Sanganeri Gate No Telephone Hours: 10 am – 7 pm Monday to Saturday
Camel leather and export quality stitching makes these Indian sandals better than the others ~ like Cinderella we tried them all on & these fit by far the best. They come in fabulous colors and shiny metallic hues which will be standout chic on the beach. Well worth the extra hundred or so rupees above the competition.

Mojari Bhawani Villa, Gulab Path, Chomu House Tel: 0141-237-7037 www.mojari.com Hours: 10 am – 6:30 pm Monday to Saturday
What this shoe shop lacks in interior appeal it makes up for in quality and good karma: it’s a UN sponsored program to revive the handmade leather shoemaking of Rajastan. Sort through heaping piles of jhutis, the traditional footwear of Indian villagers, made with better cushioning than those found in the bustling bazaars but the higher prices, around Rs750, are fixed.

Prem Chapple Store Shop #40, Bapu Bazar Tel: 0141-256-7580 Hours: 10 am – 9 pm daily
Skilled negotiators should put their bargaining talents to the test with the shopkeepers of Bapu Bazar. A good place to start is with the affable Sunny at this leather shoe shop, more comfortable than the others thanks to the bench in the back, ideal for trying on seemingly endless styles of sandals and jhuti, each pattern unique to a village across Rajasthan. Regardless of where Sunny starts off the negotiations, expect to pay around Rs 200 per pair of simple open toe sandals, more for the slippers laden with tiny sequins.

Ayurvedic Beauty

Himalaya Herbal Healthcare 57, Goodluck MansionPanch Batti, M.I. Road Tel: 0141-236-4495 www.himalayahealthcare.com
Hours: 9:30 am – 7:30 pm Monday to Saturday
This sweet & clean little apothecary stocks a fruit garden full of almost edible products for the face and body, plus organic capsules promising to slim and de-stress. With prices starting at less than a dollar, it’s a stress free shopping experience that just might turn up the ideal elixir.

Painted Miniatures & More

Mukesh Gupta B-61, Pragati Path, Bajaj Nagar Main Market (Near Hanuman Mishthan Bhandar) Tel: 0141-270-1829 Hours by appointment
Mr Gupta welcomes those who journey to Jaipur & into his three floors of intricate miniatures just as he would guests to his own home. Few who pass through leave without a delicious lunch along with their painted treasures .

Salim Paper Gramodyog Road, Village de Sanganer has a lovely collection of handmade papers and stationery T: 01412730222

Antiques

Saroj- Owner Chetan is only true antique dealer in town A-2 Tilak Marg, Nadndanam Apts, C-Scheme T: 01415110927 Hours: 11 am - 7:30 pm Monday to Saturday, Sunday by appointment
Call ahead so the shopkeeper can wave down the driver since this little treasure chest is hidden in an otherwise uninteresting apartment block near Anokhi. Collectors flock here for late 19th century Ravi Varma prints, those vibrant & amusing depictions of Indian life embellished with silk and sequin details. Antique maps and vintage advertisements also line the walls. The shop also has a notable collection of porcelain dolls.

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